I got a call from a mate Chris Bryan (filmer) asking if I would be keen for another trip overseas after scoring at Fiji. I was pretty content on cruising at home as I had only been home for 3 days. He was heading over to shoot Jamie Obrien to work on his new Intersection part. I knew it was going to be one of the bigger swells to hit Indo for the year.
Before I knew it I was 2 days into travelling; 3 flights, a 14 hour boat ride and was struck down with food poisoning from some seedy food joint in Jakarta. Nonetheless, I finally made it to the new Lancers Left Land camp in the Mentawaiis.
I have done heaps of boat trips and what the boys have set up over there is amazing.
I would recommend staying there over any boat.
Here is my first attempt to edit on Final Cut Hope you guys like it..
Hippo Indo Edit from js35 on Vimeo.
After scoring some of the best waves i've ever had in a 2 month period, I was keen to get home and just relax. I seen a lot of missed calls and text msg on my phone regarding swells, so I knew straight away I would be off overseas again.
I looked at the charts and saw the biggest black and purple blob going straight to Tahiti. It was looking like one of the biggest swells I had ever seen.
There is only 2 flights a week out of Australia to Tahiti, so I didn't even get to unpack. The day I was supposed to leave I woke up and drove past my local spot at Currumbin Alley and it was firing. So I got a sneaky fun surf in before I was off overseas again.
Hazza being Hazza...
ANIMAL!! from js35 on Vimeo.
I would have to admit, i've never been so nervous going into a big swell as I was for this trip. I wasn't mentally ready as I was so drained from travelling and surfing so much. But my sponsor Monster energy was keen for me to head over for the swells as they were one of the main sponsors of the event.
There was also the pressure to perform in front of the whole surfing world. I didn't have anyone organised to partner up with on the ski before I left. I usually partner up with Mark Mathews but he had a moment and took his washing to the dry cleaners and forgot about the passport in his pockets.
I got a email the day I arrived of a good friend Pato from Brazil, who is an amazing big wave surfer. He has been chasing big swells all over the world with his family for long time. I had surfed some big waves in WA with Pato and I was stoked to partner up with him for Tahiti. It definitely gives you some confidence when you know you have a good driver behind the ski.
The day of the swell I woke up really early. It wasn't hard as I was staying right at the point and that night I didn't get much sleep as there was waves coming over the concrete fence and into the backyard.
I had never seen anything like it. I thought the house was going to be washed away. That morning I wanted to get some waves before it got crowded, so we were the first ski out there. We watched the swell for a while and it was just settling in. It was really west and raw, the wave looked like it had morning sickness, it looked really low tide and ugly.
After watching a few rideable ones I wanted to get rid of the nerves and just ride a couple. I ended up getting some really fun ones in the morning before it got really busy. As the day progressed, more guys were coming out and the waits just got longer. I ended up getting a really good one around midday - perfect wave, not too west and just really enjoyable.
There was a incident where Maya Gabeira was in a really bad spot at the end bowl. I was on the ski and seen her struggling, so I jumped of the ski and Pato went in to grab her. He couldn't get to her in time unfortunately, as a massive white wash ran him down and rolled the ski. That was the end of the session - I was lucky no one was really hurt or died and I was happy to be a part of it. I cant wait for the next one.
Click the link to check out
Tim Bonython edit http://vimeo.com/28605933"
will have more clips coming its all I could get my hands on at the moment.